Wednesday, 30 December 2009

#217 The next ten years


It is the day before Hogmanay 2009, and I just realised that we are about of a new decade!  The last time that happened, everyone was getting excited at the year 2000 approaching, and the Champagne world was figuring out absurd marketing ploys to extract the money from people’s pockets and into their own.

And as this next decade creeps in, with nobody really paying any intention, this is what I think is going to happen over the next ten years in the wine world.

The emergence of Portuguese wine will not happen

Firstly, I love Portuguese wine, wine critics love Portuguese wine, and everyone is saying that Portuguese wine is ‘the next big thing’, but it isn’t going to be!  Why?  Because it is no longer offering the value for money that it once did.  The Euro is too strong against the pound, there is precious little decent entry level wine available and without that, selling Portuguese wine, or any other emerging wine country's wine, is like trying to wean a baby off breast milk with whisky.  It simply will not happen! (it should be noted that if the Euro tanks in value, I reserve the right to alter my opinion!)

James Bond will switch to Dom Perignon
Bollinger’s position as James Bond’s champagne of choice (aka expensive product placement) is not true to the Ian Fleming books, and it is in Moet & Chandon’s interests to get their prestige cuvee being consumed by Daniel Craig as soon as possible, as it would give them massive publicity for this champagne, which it needs due to the growing public awareness of it’s main rivals.

Gary Vaynerchuk will overtake Parker
Already established in America as ‘the working man’s Robert Parker’, Vaynerchuk’s entertaining style of wine critique is making roads into Britain.  The fact that he doesn’t restrict himself to fine wine makes him instantly accessible to the masses, and his youth gives him a long term staying power, and his mupper-esque manner make him entertaining and a joy to watch.  The only thing that can stop Vaynerchuk becoming the number 1  wine critic in the world is Vaynerchuk!  His other interests and his entrepreneurial talent could divert his attention away from wine, and this could stop his rise to the top.

Alcohol will become the new tobacco
It is already happening, but alcohol is rapidly becoming as vilified as tobacco, and within the next decade, there will be extensive legislation put in place to curb alcohol misuse.  Government health warnings and pictures of rotting livers will be plastered all over bottles (it is going to look great on Petrus bottles!), advertising bans will come into force and don’t be surprised if the drinking age goes up either.

English wine will improve & 16% will become the norm

Still seen as a bit of a cottage industry by some and a joke by many, England’s vineyards are improving year on year, and, should Europe warm up, as all the environmentalists believe it will, the UK could see warmer summers, and colder winters and, maybe, that magical 100 days of sunshine needed will become a reality.  Also, it the world keeps heating up, we could see 16% abv becoming the norm in certain areas of Australia and maybe even France.  Then it will be down to the skill of the winemaker to mask the horrific levels of alcohol.

The bubble will burst
The fine wine market has to crash!  As more and more people ‘invest’ in wine, fewer people are drinking fine wine and therefore there is far too much top end wine still around.  We are already seeing some fine wine merchants clearing stock from non-great vintages at ridiculous prices, and it is only a matter of time until 2005 starts being discounted.  Once this happens, the rest will follow suit and it is time to fill your boots!

Port will become the next Bordeaux
Although I think that Portuguese wine will not become the next big thing, I think Vintage Port will take off as the new wine obsession in the far east, and prices will climb because of it.  Fortunately, the great 2007 vintage hasn’t been hiked up in price, but I think that the next declared year will be as the rich, sweet style will appeal to the Japanese and Chinese markets and they will buy everything and the prices will become astronomically high.

It’s wine writing Jim, but not as we know it…
With more and more online wine writing, and with newspapers seeing their readership dwindle, there is more and more pressure to cut costs when it comes to specialist writers.  In the next decade, wine critics are going to be cut from Saturday or Sunday supplements, and they are going to have to find gainful employment through online writing.  The problem with this is that they are going to have to rely upon advertising revenue to earn their living, and this will pose ethical questions regarding their impartiality.  Subscription websites are going to be hit too, due to the huge amounts of decent wine blogs (of which I hope you consider this to be one!) providing advice for free.  There is the counter argument that the huge number of blogs makes it difficult and time consuming for the consumer to find sage advice, a simple directory of reputable websites would address that matter.

Nothing will change in the whisky world
Scotch whisky will continue to be a drink consumed by old men.  The industry is so set in it’s tartan clad ways that they refuse to accept any new ideas or take a risk with a revolutionary advertising campaign to attract younger drinkers.  In ten years from now, we will see fewer active distilleries, increased prices and shortages of supply on certain products – exactly what we have been seeing for the past decade.

The return of the RTD
Long gone are brands such as Hooch and Metz, but the ‘Ready to Drink’ or RTD market is growing again.  With companies such as Jack Daniels, Smirnoff and Gordons appearing in can form on supermarket shelves, these RTD’s offer slightly more sophisticated pre-mixed drinks without the neon colours and fake fruit flavours of the more traditional alcopops.  To further this, we are seeing brands like Crabbies producing alcoholic ginger beer, so it is entirely feasible that other companies will follow suit.  Alcoholic Red Bull anyone?!

And finally…

Taxes on alcohol will go up
This will guarantee that I get one thing right!

By Peter Wood with No comments

Friday, 25 December 2009

#216 Wines of the Year 2009

Two thousand and nine has been a year where I have tried some spectacular wines from many different countries.  Two wine related trips abroad brought wonders from Champagne, Burgundy and the Rhone, plus many trade tastings, wine fairs and the occasional decadent dinner with friends allowed me to try wines that were beyond most folks reach.  So sorry if you get attacked by the green eyed monster, but these are my wines of the year...

FIVE: 1978 Moet & Chandon
Number 5 should probably be Krug Collection 1985 or 1995 Musigny from Jacques Frederic Mugnier, but I was born in 1978 (a year known for being crap pretty much everywhere in the wine world) and I’d never had an outstanding wine from the year I emerged into the world until I tried this champagne.  It was quite a smoky wine, with toast, lost of honey and new potatoes on the nose.  The palate was wonderfully mature with lime, candied fruit and spice flavours.  I know I’ve tried better wines, but this was special to me.
FOUR: 1967 Chateau Suduiraut
Old sauternes develop a stinky, heather honey and tobacco smoke aroma, and this was no different.  I loved it!  A spice on the palate, with burnt orange skin and loads of honey.  A glorious wine, that did exactly  what such a wine should – it delivered the sweetness, but had the acid it needs to clean your mouth and leave you wanting more.  Staggeringly good.

THREE: 1927 Martinez Vintage Port
Drunk on January 1st, so just getting into this year’s top 5!  It was drunk at it’s best.  This 80-odd year old port had softened with stunning quince jelly, cassis and roast beef juices on the nose, and then some coffee, toffee and blackcurrant flavours, yet still fresh.  The finish was blueberry, milk chocolate and tobacco.  Stunning.
TWO: 1961 Moet & Chandon
This is not only my favourite wine of the year (from a quality perspective) but my new favourite Champagne.  An exquisite balance of mature champagne – mushrooms, apples, toffee etc, but with superb balance, gorgeous acidity and, despite it’s age, an amazing freshness.

ONE: Moet & Chandon Esprit du Siecle
This gets the top sport, not because of it being the best wine I’ve tried this year (that is at number 2), but because when you try a unique wine that costs twenty grand per magnum (if it was available), and is a blend of umpteen different vintage champagnes from every decade in the 20th century and then fermented for a third time to get the bubbles back in, in the cellars of Moet & Chandon with some of your best friends, you HAVE to place it first!



Photo pinched from Richard W.H. Bray without permission. Hope he doesn't mind!

By Peter Wood with 1 comment

Monday, 14 December 2009

#215 Crap of the week: A bow tie for your bottle


You can tell it is Christmas when a million and one types of crap appear on the market as 'stocking fillers'.  I can understand the concept of stocking fillers when you are a child, when cheap plastic toys, tubes of Smarties and the omnipresent Terry's Chocolate Orange.  However, when you are an adult there is no need to spend bucket loads of cash on products that will be chucked in a cupboard for a year before being relocated to the bin.

This is one of these gifts.  Not only is it a bow tie for a bottle (why would your bottle of wine need a bow tie?!), but it is a bottle opener and a corkscrew.  That is all well and good, but you can also record a message so the bottle of wine greets you when you pull it apart to use it.

If you have £20 burning a hole in your pocket, give it to a charity, buy a bundle of chocolate oranges or use it to light a cigarette, just don't buy this rubbish.

Available from GadgetWorld


By Peter Wood with 1 comment

Sunday, 13 December 2009

#214 The good, the bad and the surprising - November


A little late (retail and December means no time to do anything but sell wine!) but this is November's selection...

The Good: 1995 Musigny, Jacques Frederic Mugnier
A stunning wine, although horrifically expensive now, and although outstandingly beautiful and enticing, it has a little farmyardy hint (which went so well with Epoisses).  It really is Kate Beckinsale in a pair of wellies.

The Bad: 2007 Xanadu Exmoor Cabernet Sauvignon
It smelled SO bad I poured it down the sink and didn't even taste it.  Does that sum it up?

The Surprising: 2008 Ciconia Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragones
A (relatively) cheap Portuguese wine at £7.50, and although it is a pretty simple wine it is very drinkable and with nice dusty fruit, great texture and a little spice. Really nice. 


By Peter Wood with No comments

Tuesday, 1 December 2009

#213 6 Questions with... Bill Lark, Lark Distillery


 
Single Malt whisky should come from Scotland.  Yes?  Well if you're Bill Lark the answer is most certainly 'No', as in 1992 he established Lark Distillery in Tasmania, over a century after the last distillery closed on the island, and is the 'godfather' of Australian distillation!

One of his current projects is as a consultant to the Kingsbarns Distillery, near St Andrews in Fife, which is using his micro distillery as inspiration for it's working tourist attraction.  So to learn a bit more about this man, who I am sure will become more well known in the UK as the Kingsbarns project continues, we asked him six questions.

Aside from your own whiskies, what else do you drink on a regular basis?
I often tell people that I am never caught at home without a Talisker and a Highland Park in the cupboard. The Talisker because in my opinion it is one of the best balanced whiskies in terms of wood malt & peat and the Highland Park because you can taste the heather. Apart from those two if I am with friends up in  the Highlands fly fishing then I'll always look for a Laphroaig, something like the latest 18yo release would be just beaut. Then of course first thing in the morning when no one feels like cooking breakfast I would look for something like a Clynelish. (I'd just like to point out that the fact that Bill has got a whisky for drinking at breakfast proves that he is exceptionally cool!)

If you didn't make whisky, what would you do for a living?
I used to be a land surveyor for my sins in a past life and although I really enjoyed that time of my life.  These days I think I would love to explore my hidden talents in making musical instruments and slit cane fly rods. I am currently working on a violin for my son and a couple of light weight 7'6" fly rods for friends.

What is the best whisky you have tried?
I will never forget being given a sample of a 35yo Glen Grant to take back to Tasmania a few years ago and I took it to the Gillies Club where it scored 10/10, almost unheard of. It was truly memorable and the way Glen Grant should a big sherry cask mellowed with age. The other one that sticks out in my mind was a single cask bottling of Glen Garioch 22 yo Cask Strength, what a beauty, I only had one bottle and I regret now not getting more.

Describe yourself in three words.
I'm not sure I can repeat the words most often used to describe me, but since I can choose the words myself I would say: Adventurous, (yet)Conservative and Traditional.  The recent description of me in the Scotsman as being "A tubby, gnome like little fella from downunder" is quite misleading!

What is your first memory of drinking whisky?
Having caught a magnificent 4lb wild brown trout in the highlands of Tasmania on fishing trip with my father-in-law, Max Stewart, (recent Scottish ancestry) we decided to launch into a bottle of Glenfiddich while waiting for our wives to arrive to barbeque the trout in a beautiful park in the Highland town of Bothwell. It was then and there that we decided we should make Malt Whisky in Tasmania, perhaps we had too much Glenfiddich - perhaps we didn't have enough or perhaps it was just being surrounded by wonderful fields of barley, clean highland streams and knowing we had good peat bogs just the road - who knows.

Name three people, real or fictional, living or dead, that would be your ideal dinner party guests.
If I had the opportunity to invite three special guests I would have to include Compton Mackenzie, author of one of my most favorite books, I love his wicked sense of story telling. I'm secretly in love with Nigella Lawson, who my son says I can marry anytime ( I don't think I have approval from my wife, Lyn, not at this stage anyhow), She's the goddess of food, and finally I think I would choose Billy Connolly just because it would be so much fun and we all need a bit of a good belly laugh from time to time.

Lark Distillery Website
Kingsbarns Distillery Blog

Previous 6 Questions with
Gary Horner  
Geoff Hardy
Ernst Loosen
Dan Aykroyd
Paul Draper
Dan Connolly
Sir Cliff Richard


By Peter Wood with No comments