#432 Hail to the 'chef' - Compass Box Whiskies

New Year is quickly approaching and no doubt bottles of whisky will be hauled out of the cupboard to toast the start of 2012.  A century ago, a couple of years before half the world decided to try and kill each other, people around the world would be doing exactly the same.  Having parties and drinking whisky, but with one major difference.

Back then, the whiskies being served would not have been single malts, they would be blends with names such as Dewers, Black & White and Famous Grouse.  It wasn’t until the latter half of the 20^th century that the single malt market exploded and was deemed to be of higher quality than blends.  Since then, whisky snobs have looked down on blended whisky as an inferior product, writing books about how great single malts are and rarely, if ever, mentioning anything else.  The producers themselves haven’t helped their cause by hammering down the price of bigger named blends like Bell’s.

But this new year, instead of opting for your normal single malt, I suggest you take a look at blended whisky again.  Not the big name brands, but the small, artisan producer called Compass Box. 

Founded in 2000 by John Glaser, the company embraces the styles of whisky throughout Scotland but used a range of different malts and grains to produce whiskies of exceptional quality.  I tried a selection of his whiskies just before Christmas and they excellent examples of what can be done when you have a blender making whisky that doesn’t have to hit a price point.

Great King Street (43% vol)

This whisky is Compass Box's 'entry level' blended whisky - focusing on the traditions that made blended whisky so popular, but maintaining high quality.  The whisky has light honey with some creamy rhubarb and custard aromas.  A little dark wood emerges from the nose with some cinnamon spice.  Bitter match stick is the first thing you get on the palate, but then some lovely sweetness with honey on the back end.  A tasty blended whisky.  89pts

Compass Box Asyla (40% vol)

A blended whisky containing malts from Linkwood, Glen Elgin and Teaninich and grain whisky from Cameron Bridge.  Put into first fill ex-Bourbon barrels, it is not chill filtered and has honey and lemon aromas, followed by Trebor Fruit Salad sweets and vanilla.  The palate is lovely and sweet with some soft melon pith and an oily, delightful finish.  88pts

Compass Box Oak Cross (43% vol)

Several ten to twelve year old malts make up this whisky from Teaninich, Brora and Carron, and are then put into American and new French oak casks.  Lots of Vanilla, some ethanol too and a bit harsh.  Pineapple comes off on the palate, quite sweet, medicinal and with leather and lavender.  A bit crude.  82pts

Compass Box Spice Tree (46% vol)

Similar in age to the Oak Cross, this whisky is mainly made from malt whisky distilled at the Clynelish distillery and put into first and re-fill American oak.  It is then transferred to heavily toasted new French Oak barrels made from wood from the Vosges forest.  Rounded aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg and rice pudding with some liquorice covered in honey.  The palate has a touch of earth, some sweetness initially then a big, gutsy wallop of spice.  It is a bit of a bruiser, but delivered really well – this is the Mohammed Ali to the Oak Cross’ drunken street fighter.  92pts

Compass Box Peat Monster (46% vol)

An un-named Islay whisky, a smoky malt from Mull (Ledaig?!) and a peated Speyside Malt make up the Peat Monster. There is smoke, a lot of burning oak and pipe tobacco sweetness on the nose.  Very mellow palate with some pear drops mixed with some spice and cream to cancel out the slightly abrasive alcohol.  Mint and smoke on the finish that is very delicious. 90pts

Compass Box Hedonism

Whiskies between 14 and 29 years old from the grain distilleries of Cameron Bridge, Carsebridge and Cambus make up Hedonism.  The aroma is creamy with lots of vanilla, currants, crème brulee and a touch of sulphur on the end.  Delicious bread and butter pudding flavours with a tiny bit of honeydew melon and coconut.  A really tasty bottle of whisky and proof that grain whisky can be fantastic and the match for any single malt. 92pts

I know we are in a world where we all want to know the history of the food and drink we consume.  We buy locally sourced meat and vegetables in the supermarkets and with single malts we know which distillery the whisky was made in.  But is it relevant?  With Compass Box, it is better to look at their whiskies as you would a meal from a Michelin starred restaurant.  You trust they are using good ingredients, but it doesn't matter where the food comes from as what you are really paying for is the skill of the chef.  

With this range of blended whiskies, you are paying for the skill of 'chef' John Glaser, and his produce is, in a lot of cases, both tastier and better value than single malts with the same flavour profile.

By Peter Wood with No comments

#431 Taylor's Port & OXO cubes

I got an old OXO tin for Christmas.  I know that sounds like a really strange thing to receive, but I love it. It isn't just an old OXO tin, it is a commemorative one from the coronation of King George VI (if you aren't up on your royal history, it is the person Colin Firth played in The King's Speech) and is in the shape of a red British post box that can be used as a money box.  It is battered, with slight rust on it and has had a hard seventy five years life, and because it is in a bit of a bashed state, I like it all the more.  It would be easy to get a reproduction tin, all shiny and new, for me to store my cufflinks in (for that is the purpose for which it was bought), but it wouldn't have a history.  The genuine article, flaws and all, is what I want because it has had a life.

Old vintage port, like my OXO tin, has had a life and I love the stuff.  No two bottles are the same, each tells its own story and has its own character.  Bottled after two years in barrel, vintage ports evolve in ways that you can't predict, some in the cellars at Villa Nova de Gaia, others in the cellars of mansion houses, and some under a bed in an old cardboard box.  Some are bottled in Oporto, others (before 1970) sent to other countries and poured into glass there. The taste of each is influenced by their journey and each has its own character.

Tawny ports are different from vintage as they are always 'at their best' when you drink them.  Having done all their maturation in barrel, they are blended to a style, one of maturity and oxidisation. Although I have tried younger tawnies, I'd never tried a forty year old before.  Here is what I found out when I compared an older Tawny with a vintage port from the same house, approaching it's half century.

Taylor's 40 Tawny Port

A lot of dark, liquorice aromas with some caramel and raisin. Cocoa and toffee and some lovely sweet tobacco.  The palate is fat, globular and spicy.  Very little balance and a lot of alcohol heat. There is a spice flavour there and the finish is sweet and clean but it is just lacking in any grace and is, really, a 'bang for your bucks' wine, and at a hundred pounds a bottle, that is a lot of bucks. 85pts


1963 Taylor's Vintage Port, bottled by Berry Bros & Rudd

Gentle, graceful ripe cherries with a lovely bright sweet fruit aroma. Restrained with hints of damson and cigar tobacco. The palate is very elegant, a touch of spice and some alcohol up front. Mingles with a lovely mint, cocoa and leather palate, savoury notes throughout with a delightful tarry finish. Delicious and a snip at £150. 94pts

For me, and it is just me, Tawny ports are nice but just a bit crude.  They are the reproduction OXO tin that I don't want, shiny, new and the same as dozens of others - a 'fake' aged expression if you will.  The vintage port however is my battered, old pillar box tin - full of character, life and a story of its own.  Every bottle from the case will tell its own story, as my tin will tell a different story from the others made in its production run.  This individuality is the appeal of drinking old wines, every bottle is a never-to-be-repeated experience.

By Peter Wood with No comments

#430 Wine - A force for good

When I am conducting a tasting event I get to see the diversity of human beings and it is very revealing. You engage the audience when you have to, and then disappear when you aren't needed, but, like Dennis Thatcher behind Maggie, you are always there... observing.

As I looked around the room, it is amazing what you see. I notice the (suspected) Lesbian couple who are trying to not let their friends know they are an item and holding hands under the table whilst they talk to other people.  The handsome sleazy guy who is pretending he knows more about wines than he does, in the vain attempt to chat up the girl that has reluctantly had to sit next to him.

There are those people who are here for a chat with their friends, they stand out as they actually don't drink much due to the fact that they are too busy chatting and then end up downing half a glass in one go when it is time to move on to the next wine.  The polar opposite are those here for a cheap evening of booze, who drink far too quickly and then spend the ten minutes between each of my stints on the floor eyeing up the  full glasses of those chatting.

There is the guy in his mid twenties , here with his parents.  Obviously an only or youngest child, his parents have forced him to come along in case the is a young girl he who may catch his eye.  Sadly, as always, there isn't.  We have the "mutton dressed as lamb" lady and her leather jacketed, balding husband.  Both have realised that they had better start socialising with people their own age but reluctant to join the blue rinse crowd yet, so they think wine tastings are a way to meet people without taking up bowls or joining a knitting group.

Then the is the Colonel.  A retired military type who is the only person to ask questions,  coming so quickly you can only imagine how hard an interrogator he was in a past life.  You suspect that he not only knows more about wine than you do, but knows each of the producers you are talking about personally and probably slept with most of their wives when going around Europe during the war.  Still, at the end of the evening, he is the first to thank you and say how much he enjoyed himself showing that manners and politeness isn't dead, just getting older.

There are the older ladies, all north of eighty, who confess to you that they don't normally drink and then accidentally mention that they managed to polish off half a bottle of brandy the other evening, and you have the younger girls who are using the tasting as a way to become lubricated by drink before they hit the town later.  There is the guy in a jumper and tie that doesn't know anyone and doesnt say a word all night but can't take his eyes off the chunkier girl in ill-fitting heels.  Sadly, for jumper guy, she can't stop staring at handsome sleazy guy.

Genuinely-cool-arty-mid-forties-guy is the life and soul of the party at one of the tables, in his thick rimmed spectacles and designer blazer, paired with tatty jeans and flip-flops, despite it being November.  He controls the conversation, stories bounding forth about his time cycling in Peru.  On the same table is the 'I will not get dressed up for anything as I'm too important and cool ' scruffy looking type who is grumpy that arty guy is stealing his thunder.  

Tech guy and tech girl are tweeting the event from opposite sides of the room, with their spelling getting worse as the evening moves on and the wine gets more depleted, and there is the trio of girls who arrived together, talk to nobody but each other and leave together - why they are here escapes me as they don't look to be enjoying themselves.

Tastings offer the chance for so many diverse people to come together and share in an experience that, to a greater or lesser extent, they all enjoy.  We hear so much from politicians about alcohol being a dangerous thing, causing the breakdown of society, but when used in moderation and sensibly, wine, beer and spirits does exactly the opposite, and results in people mingling with others that they would never speak to.  

Wine is a very positively powerful thing.

By Peter Wood with 1 comment

#429 Sliced Tomatoes and Rieslings

At a time when I should be immersed in work due to the impending Christmas rush that is about to hit my shop at any moment, I have two things going round and round in my head and I can't get rid of them.  The first is a musical piece called Sliced Tomatoes by The Just Brothers.  This is why I love, and hate, a lot of music from the 1960's.  Back then songwriters knew how to create a catch hook - a small piece of music that just sticks in your brain and would then never leave - and the result would inevitably mean a hit in the charts.  Despite being one hit wonders, and seven years after this track was released, The Just Brothers created a piece of music that not only won't leave my head, but obviously got stuck in Norman Cook's head as he used it as the main sample for the Fatboy Slim track "Rockafeller Skank".

The other thing that I just can't get out of my head was a tasting I went to months ago!  I should have written it up long ago, but I kept putting it off and putting it off, and rather than have that plague me, much as The Just Brothers are, I'd exorcise this demon and write the article about Grosset Rieslings.

After producing some of Australia's most famous Rieslings for three decades, Jeffrey Grosset's Clare Valley winery is on the receiving end of much praise from wine critics all over the world.  His hand picked, meticulously made wines are certainly one of, if not the  wines that have rejuvinated Clare Valley Riesling and consistently score in the nineties.  I have tried the Polish Hill Riesling before, and never understood why the critics rated it so highly, but I'd not tried their full Riesling range before, and expected great things based on the reviews.  I'm not certain if I got what I expected however.

2011 Grosset Polish Hill Clare Valley Riesling

The thirty first release of this wine, and it is showing some bright lime and hot rock aromas.  Very nice and very pleasant - you could just smell this wine and be happy.  The palate has a crisp flavour, some lime and spice emerging with a touch of pepper as well.  

                                                  A long, bone dry finish.  90pts

2011 Grosset Springvale Watervale Riesling

Soft, muted citrus aromas - a bit like confit lemon and then some softer, chalky notes come off.  The palate is lovely and clean, a little lemony with a pencil lead flavour and some grapefruit pith.  A touch high acid for my liking on the finish, but not overpowering in the slightest.  Very tasty.  88pts

2011 Grosset Off Dry Watervale Riesling

Very subtle with some lemon marmalade coming off and a little pork fat too.  A lush, round palate, with the sweetness being delivered first and then a crisp, clean palate with some floral notes emerging.  Very light, quite savoury - despite the sweeter notes.  89pts

2007 Grosset Gaia

Almost concentrated pasta sauce on the nose!  Dark, vegetal tomato plant aromas with herbs and a huge amount of bramble.  The palate is dark, filled with sweet berries and a bundle of dark chocolate and cherry with just a touch of spice on the finish before an attack of dried fruit - prunes.  A very well balanced wine, good structure and a delightful finish.  91pts

These are good wines - no debate needed on that, I just don't get the mid nineties that the Polish Hill receives.  Maybe I'm being too tough, but they just seem to be considered a little better than I think they are.  And this is causing me more mental anguish - why don't I appreciate these as much as the big cheeses of the wine criticism.  I suspect that this will linger in my brain alongside Sliced Tomatoes.  

By Peter Wood with 1 comment

#428 Niepoort Port Tasting

I make no apologies for the fact that I love port, and as it is appropriate at this time of year, I thought I'd trot out another post on the fortified wine from the Douro.  This time a tasting of wines from Dirk Niepoort.


I've long been a fan of the wines from this producer and having visited their lodge in Villa Nova de Gaia I still have fond memories of looking around antiquated rooms with old rotary telephones and a store with old templates for painting bottles strewn about the place.  I think their strength is in their Tawny ports and this was one of the first times that their new offering, The Senior Tawny - was tasted in Britain.

Niepoort Dry White Port

Bright aromas of lemon and, a slight hint, of home made lemonade with a touch of lime skin.  The palate is very gentle, some honey notes, a little pepper and with some minerally notes.  Some grapefruit pith emerges and there is a lovely long, citrus finish. £14.00. 88pts

Niepoort Senior Tawny

Lots of polished wood, cherry and dried cranberries.  A little honey comes off with some rosemary.  The palate is soft, lovely with dried fruit, a little more polished wood, some dried fruit - prunes and raisins - and then a cinnamon and tobacco finish that is quite sweet.  It really is a delicious port and at £18.00 it is great value.  90pts

Niepoort Colheita 2001

A stunning vintage tawny, bright, fresh with some jam and nuts coming from the wine.  A lot of leathery flavours, some sweet pipe tobacco and a delicious spice with hazelnuts and cashews - it is like getting a bag of fruit and nut mix and putting them in your mouth!  86pts

Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage 2007

Big, jammy with lots of sweet aromas and rich bramble spiced with cloves.  There is a touch of lighter jam flavours, some rich bramble, cherry and menthol.  An earthy note comes through, with leather and baked fruit pie and cinnamon on the finish.  89pts

Niepoort Vintage 1997

Surprisingly bright with juniper and sweet cherry.  Lots of menthol, a touch of chocolate and bonfire toffee.  Flavours of herbs, chocolate, coffee bean, blackcurrants and lots of mint.  Dark and concentrated on the finish.  Tasty.  89pts

Niepoort Vinhos

By Peter Wood with No comments

#427 Wine Web Watch: Vampire Wine Commercial

Oh dear! I could understand going all Vampiric if this company was based in Romania. After all, Romania has one of the oldest wine making histories, and yet is barely seen on the international market, and they may as well come up with a gimmick involving vampires to get themselves noticed.

However this Vampire Wine commercial is for wines made in America, which means that this is a wine for Twilight fans...

By Peter Wood with 5 comments

#426 A quartet from the Jura

I know nothing of the Jura.  Simple as that really.  You rarely see wines from this region in the UK, so I haven't had much of a need, or opportunity, to try wines from this area of eastern France.  I could go online and into my wine books and come up with some fancy information about terroir, how the wind blows or the history of the region, but you can do that for yourself without me simply rewriting someone else's work.  What I can do is tell you about the four wines I tried recently, and how this region in France should be a hell of a lot more famous in the wine world than it is. 

Traminer is a grape that I have tried before and the wines have been pretty, well, rubbish.  The 2007 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Arbois Traminer was not one of these aforementioned turkeys.  Sure, it wasn't overly special, but it was a nice wine offering out a confit lemon and pork fat aroma with some spice and a little lemon and lime pith on the nose.  The palate had a touch of spice, some alcohol coming out, with lots of grapefruit pith, a little white pepper and grapefruit.  82pts

The next wine was the 2007 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Savagnin was a different league.  Rich, round, sherried aromas with salty citrus pith and then on the palate, some creamy textures with confit lemon, marmalade and honey.  The palate has a really sherried element, salt and then some heat, but it is subdued with a creamier texture.  Very good.  91pts

The next wine, and the last from this company, was the fifteen pounds 2008 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Chardonnay Classique.  I really didn't know what to expect from a Jura Chardonnay, but was massively impressed.  Light, bright oak and some fresh lemon coming off the nose with some melon and herbs.  A simple and elegant palate with some spice - mainly white pepper - with some melon pith, some nectarine and ginger.  94pts

And finally a Vin Jaune.  This style of white wine is similar to a Fino sherry, maturing in a barrell under a layer of yeast - known as the voile.  It is a thinner layer of yeast than the the flor on sherry, and side from using the Savagnin grape, harvested late,  instead of Palomino, the main difference between sherry and Vin Jaune is that the latter is not fortified.  It is also bottled in a 620ml bottle, that represents the amount of wine that has evaporated in the six years and three months that the wine has to age between harvest and bottling.

I tried the 1998 Clos des Grives Vin Jaune from Claude Charbonnier.  Immediately, smoked lemons with sea salt emerged from the wine with a lovely ash and honey aroma.  More salty notes appeared on the palate, with a dried citrus peel, spiced almonds and a lovely lemon and salt zing on the finish.  Its not something everyone will like - but I did.  92pts

I didn't really know what to expect with this group of wines, but thought that the Chardonnay would be the weakest of the range, and it turned out to be the strongest.  Quite simply, this wine from the Jura offers a quality at a low price that you simply don't get from Burgundy any more.

By Peter Wood with No comments